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Comment on Valve is looking to add an optional battery charge limit to the SD, to preserve battery life

NuXCOM_90Percent@lemmy.zip ⁨4⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

In theory that is nice. In practice that is just as expensive to re-tool for and isn’t needed. Any adhesive being used should (and, in my experience, does) soften up under a simple heat gun (or hair dryer if you are lazy). That obviously gets REAL sketchy if you are dealing with a spicy pillow but… in that case you should not be touching things unless you know how to handle those (bucket of sand). At which point dealing with a battery you probably don’t want to get hot is not an issue.

Like a lot of stuff, I blame “popular science” tech youtubers like Linus Sebastien. He thought it was funny to lose his mind with a butter knife and stab at his steam deck and everyone pointed out how dangerous that was while memeing it around. When the reality is that you just get a plastic spreader/old credit card and a heat gun and stuff pops out pretty quick in these “reasonable” uses of glue/tape situations.

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mnemonicmonkeys@sh.itjust.works ⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

Like a lot of stuff, I blame “popular science” tech youtubers like Linus Sebastien. He thought it was funny to lose his mind with a butter knife and stab at his steam deck and everyone pointed out how dangerous that was while memeing it around.

Stuff like this is why I can’t watch LTT anymore. He’s effectively become the PewDiePie or Logan Paul of tech and has become net negative for the industry.

Lately he did a video where he downloaded HoloISO as an analogue for a SteamOS 3.0 review (why would you review it when it’s actively discouraged for download on non-Steam Deck hardware?). While he doesn’t spend a ton of time on the problems (like connecting to printers), it’s still negative exposure to things that will most likely be sorted out before release (if they’re not already fixed within Valve).

That being said, I shouldn’t expect much from the guy who did the equivalent of deleting System32 in an attempt to install Steam when all he had to do was open the app manager and click install

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- fuckwit_mcbumcrumble@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago
  You mean the same guy who didn’t remove the stickers from the bottom of a mouse, then said the mouse was shit. Then when he got called out for it doubled down instead of admitting he fucked up and relooking at the mouse? Or the same guy who’s had multiple accusations of having a hostile work environment? Then releasing a south park tier I’m sorry video?
  
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someguy3@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
Not that I know these things, but don’t batteries get pretty hot? If it loosens up with a heat gun, wouldn’t it loosen up with heavy use?

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- fuckwit_mcbumcrumble@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago
  Even if it does loosen under high heat it’s still going to more or less stay in place, then when it cools down the adhesive will resolidify. When you blast a battery with a heat gun to remove it you just get the glue loose enough that you can pull it away without horribly mangling the battery. It’s still pretty well held in there unless you’re being violent trying to remove it.
  
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- NuXCOM_90Percent@lemmy.zip ⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
  How hot a battery should/can get is a whole topic that tends to contain the key words that trigger “UGH!! PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE!!!” stupidity.
  
  But understand that these devices are generally being held in hands or even against our bodies. That is why so much work is done to let them dissipate heat quickly. We will care about the heat long before the components and glue does.
  
  A quick chat gpt says that PSAs tend to soften around 60-80C and Hot Melt Adhesives around 70-100 C.
  
  As for the electronics themselves? They can all run a LOT hotter than people expect. Using desktop PCs (just because I DO know those off the top of my head), a general rule of thumb is to not actually care until a component throttles or the case temperature hits 100F. Individual components have different thresholds (generally anything that is mostly semiconductors is in the danger zone around 100C), but individual components are almost all attached to heat sinks which are “attached” to air which is a really good insulator. So if the air is getting close to 100F (35-ish C if I remember right), stuff is bad.
  
  So yeah. There are definitely cases where you could see the adhesives fail. But they will generally be associated with hardware failures/damage if during use or, more likely, someone leaving their gameboy on the dashboard of a car during the summer.
  
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