Has anyone done diy repair on power button (not the outer plastic but the actual button on the mobo)

Submitted ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩ by ⁨Grass@sh.itjust.works⁩ to ⁨steamdeck@sopuli.xyz⁩

My power button clicks and feels normal. It doesn’t work in any situation at all. I can turn on the deck from off by plugging in the cord and if it’s already on but screen off I can only wait for it to die or open the shell and disconnect the battery.

This deck has: full shell swap, replaced worn cap and drifting stick with hall effect sticks, aftermarket buttons, replacement screen, aftermarket 1tb nvme, always had L1 require addititonal force after the click to work.

All mods were done at the same time and had no problems apart from L1 for enough time to finish spiderman, miles morales, 80% of FFVIIR, Act 1 of BG3 7 times, All of evoland 1 and 2 plus againnin legendary edition, both god of war and ragnarok, expedition 33 up to the snow area, both subnautica games, and a bunch of friendslop titles in between.

About a month ago power button stopped working and I haven’t had the motivation to deal with it but I took it apart a little bit today, saw that the power button likely requires removing the mobo, and went back to not feeling like it.

Has anyone done a successful diy powerswitch repair? Ifixit only has instructions for the plastic piece on top, though the switch itself is probably a generic piece. I’ll attempt valve if it’s the only option but I don’t really want to deal with mailing out the damned thing especially if its just going to get rejected and blamed on the mods.

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Romkslrqusz@lemmy.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
My guess is that the microswitch is not closing.

If you have a multimeter, you can use continuity mode across its two main pins and press the button to confirm whether or not it is completing its circuit.

The replacement component is likely to be somewhat generic and available through Digikey or Mouser.

This is SMD level rework, while technically achievable with a fine tipped soldering iron I would do the removal with a hot air station. If that’s beyond your tool / skill set, any shop that offers component level repair / microsoldering type services should be equipped to execute the repair for you.

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- Grass@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
  I’ll probably just do this. I have the tools but not much of the motivation, but its really just not wanting to dig around to see if I can find any of the 10+ missing thermal paste tubes for when I put it back together. After wrecking a ps4 controller in a botched stick replace, I’ve done other part swaps with the wrap everything but the piece to remove in kapton tape and aluminum foil method to avoid needing any skill and its gone well for everything I’ve tried since.
  
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  - Cort@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
    Omg, I HATE that stupid plastic connector on the ps4 controller for all the buttons, it never stays put when you’re reassembling. Took me literally 43 tries before everyone worked again.
    
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  - Romkslrqusz@lemmy.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
    May as well add a Honeywell PTM7950 pad while you have the bare board
    
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WagnasT@piefed.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
I think you should pop the case open and see if you can push the button directly on the mobo, idk if you can get at it with just the rear shell off but if it functions then it very likely is your aftermarket case is no longer lined up, you might be able to manipulate it back or add a tiny shim or try putting the stock one back on. If it doesn’t function then at least you’ve narrowed down the problem. If you have a hot air soldering iron you might be able to apply heat to just the button area and it might reseat itself on the pins but I wouldn’t go down that road till after the warranty is up.

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jokro@feddit.org ⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

especially if its just going to get rejected and blamed on the mods.

Valve support seems very pro consumer so there is some hope

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bjoern_tantau@swg-empire.de ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
Only power button mod I ever did was put some folded paper between the case’s button and the button on the motherboard. That was actually fixed on warranty when I sent my Deck in for another issue.

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hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
I replaced both my trigger buttons. I used these.

It was a bit fiddly, but not terrible, if you’re used to soldering. It’s not a beginners fix though, in my opinion. Need a hot air station too.

I’d call around to local phone repair shops, ask them the cost to replace a button on a bare circuit board. Tell them you’ll provide the button and the board.

I imagine it would be on the order of $20-30, just guessing. It’s not a hard job. Would take them minutes.

The time consuming part is removing the board from the deck and putting it all back together.

Or maybe contact your local maker space. Or go on campus to your local college, find their tech department, walk in and ask them for a hand, or if you can watch them to learn how to do it yourself.

People are generally pretty kind.

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- bunnyBoy@pawb.social ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
  If you do go this route and plan to provide the button, make sure to call ahead. When I worked at a repair shop we weren’t allowed to use customer parts because we couldn’t certify the work. Other than that though it really is a 5 minute repair, so I’m sure they’d be glad to take your money for a job so simple
  
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rotopenguin@infosec.pub ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
You could try working a little deoxyit or contact cleaner into the switch. Considering that it didn’t have a period of being flaky before it died, I am not optimistic that this will help.

Isn’t it great that the most important button is soldered on the backside of the mainboard, and is also fragile af?

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- Grass@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
  yeah I probably wasn’t doing in shell desoldering anyway but it would have been nice if diagnosis didn’t require a full teardown and removing the apu heatsink and getting air dust on all the pads…
  
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